Nepal - Trekking in the Annapurna

Note from the Author: Of all the trips I have clocked over the years, this particular trip ranked as my most favourite. It was one of the most unique and enriching trips that I had experienced. During this trip, I learnt that traveling is the discovery of oneself and not simply the physical journey to the destination - Timothy, Sep 2017

In December 1995, a planned trip to Australia with two friends, was cancelled in the last minute. Of course, there's a good reason for this but for personal reasons, I shall not discuss the details here.

The good thing is, my colleagues went ahead with the trip and from their recollections upon their return, I concluded that they did enjoy themselves. 2 years later saw me planning another trip with two other friends. We opted for a short trekking holiday to Nepal and the target date was set for late March or early April of 1998.

Thankfully, I was able to embark on this trip and we left for that magical country called Nepal, on 31 March 1998.

Kathmandu

We flew into Kathmandu on a clear afternoon on 31 March 1998. Upon arrival, we proceeded to settle the necessary clearances required by the Nepalese Customs Authorities. From what I read from guide books, this is suppossedly a cumbersome process but my experience was just the opposite. It was simple and fast.

Upon exiting Tribhuvan International Airport, we were greated by our guide. Lodging was at the Marshyandi Hotel in Thamel. Travelling around the capital of Nepal means breathing in the dust and smog that characterises this city. One also have to get used to the blaring of horns from the endless streams of vehicles that seemed to be in a perpetual state of motion.

During my stay in Kathmandu, I managed to visit some of the more prominent landmarks in the city. These included the Swayambhunath Stupa, the Bodhnath Stupa and Patan Durbar Square. Other places I visited included the Tibetan Refugee Camp.

Stupas are a common sight not only in Kathmandu, but in all major cities and population centers in the country, Kathmandu, Nepal (1998)

Hilltop view of the city, Kathmandu, Nepal (1998)

Patan Durbar Square, Kathmandu, Nepal (1998)
Author's Note: Patan Durbar Square was badly damaged in an earthquake on 25 Apr 2015

While moving around Kathmandu, I was constantly reminded of the mountainous terrain of Nepal by the view of the Himalayas in the background.

But moutain views, smog and dust were not the only things that I found in Kathmandu. There were also lots of good book stores and shops. But I did not discover this until I returned to the city on 11 April. Since my departure flight was on 14 April, I spent my 3-day stay in Kathamandu shopping for books, wooden carvings and Nepalese tea.

Talking about wooden carvings, I have always been fascinated by carvings of animals and people. There is just this charm about them that holds my attention. Unfortunately, I am unable to describe it in words. Because of this fascination, I always make it a point to get some wooden carvings as souvenirs to remember the places I had visited. To date, my favourite wooden carving is that of a mongoose that I bought while holidaying in Bintan, Indonesia in 1997.

During my stay in Kathmandu, my prized buys were 2 chess sets. One was made from carved wood while the other was made from Yak bones. Both were reasonably priced at 150 rupees and 700 rupees respectively.

The Pilgrims Book Store in Thamel not only stocked lots of books but also other items such as tea, toys, wooden carvings and posters. I remembered going back to this store at least 4 times during my stay in Kathmandu. Of course, there are other smaller bookstores around Thamel. If you happen to be there, I would strongly advise you to take the time to visit these outlets. Trust me, you are likely to find some bargain buys.

When I departed for the airport on 14 April, my luggages were bursting with items I had bought while shopping in Kathmandu. Although I was glad to leave the dust and smog behind, I wondered when will I have the opportunity to return to Nepal again.

Pokhara

Like many trekkers to the Annapurna region, we made use of Pokhara as some kind of base prior to starting on our trek. The three of us arrived in Pokara in the evening of 1 April 98. As our trek wasn't due to start until 3 April, we had slightly more than a day to explore this romantic lakeside city.

As our van rolled into Pokhara, we were greeted by splendid views of the majestic Mount Machhapuchchhre (aka Fishtail). Around us were green meadows dotted with grazing buffalos. The entire scene formed a beautiful panaroma that will bring a smile to anyone.

Disembarking from our transport, we checked into the Stupa Hotel. This was by no means a five-star establishment, but the personal touch from the staff made this a wonderful place to stay for my travelling party. After having settled down into our accommodations, we were ready to start exploring this picturesque city. Taking a shower here did leave me feeling a bit guilty though. The reason was, along the way from Kathmandu, I had witnessed countless scenes of Nepalese having to collect water at public waterpoints. The knowledge that I was using precious water resources for something as extravagant as a shower did not go down well with my conscience. I told myself to remember this and throughout my stay in Nepal for the next 14 days, I always made a conscious effort to use as little water as possible when showering or washing up.

Exploring the city on foot, I had to be constantly reminded by my friend, CC, to avoid the numerous small collections of "gold" on the streets. One uncareful step and my Timberland trekking shoes will be coated with fresh cow dung! Fortunately, I soon learned to avoid these little "mines" as I wandered through the street.

Expecting to see a beautiful lake with reflections of the moutain range on the water, Phewa Lake was something of a disappointment to me. It appeared polluted and the sight of a dead fish floating near the shore did not do much to convince me otherwise. My other friend, CH, was visibly the more upset among the three of us, but I consoled him and myself by saying that the view should be better during sunrise. We thus decided to return very early in the next morning to catch the sunrise. The effort was amply rewarded as the Shangri-la type of view we had expected was there. The moment was quickly captured on film. Sad to say, this wonderful view soon disappeared as daylight broke and the sun moved higher into the sky.

Scenery aside, Pokhara has its fair share of shops catering to the tourist trade. In a little bookshop at the end of the street, CC, CH and myself bought lots of posters of the Everest and the Annapurna ranges of moutains. Some, we intend to keep as sourvenirs, others were for family and friends back home in Singapore.

As usual, I went hunting for wooden carvings and ended up buying 2 small and beautifully carved camels. The shop owner had originally wanted 600 Nepalese rupees for one of these wooden camels. I bargained and offered 800 rupees for 2. He refused and remembering the advice of the guidebooks that I had read before embarking on this trip, I just walked out of the store, pretending to give up any thoughts of purchase. Barely had I taken five steps and the owner got to his feet and agreed to my offer of 800 rupees for 2. I had won! Or had I? It was immaterial as I got what I wanted at what I felt to be a reasonable price and the owner got his business.

Overall, my stay in Pokhara was an enjoyable one and if I do visit Nepal again, this will be one place that I would like to return to.

On the "highway" from Kathmandu to Pokhara, Nepal (1998)

A picture postcard view of Lake Phewa, Pokhara, Nepal (1998)

Trekking along the Annapurna Himalayan Trials (Annapurna Massif)

Day 1 (3 April 1998) - Today was the first day of our trek. The day began early as we set off at about 7.40am. Driving out of Pokhara (900 meters above sea level), our driver was in a cheerful mood as he brought us to the foot of Dhampus Hill. Here, there was a little hut that sold coffee and tea.

Checking that we had the necessary items, including our trekking permits, that were to last us for the next 5 or 6 days, we started to climb Dhampus Hill at almost 8.40am. It was a rather steep ascend that had me panting like a dog by the time I had reached the summit which is about 1500 metres above sea level. Along the way, we had stopped twice for drinks as well as to catch our breadth. 600 metres of climbing in about an hour. Not bad for a first-timer, huh?

We stopped for lunch at a teahouse on top of the hill. There were some Tibetans selling handicrafts outside the teahouse and as I had finished my lunch ahead of my friends, I went to chat with them. They were really nice people as we exchanged small talk even though I didn't buy anything from them. During our talk, they had mistakenly thought that I was a Japanese but I corrected them saying I am Singaporean.

The next part of the trek continued soon after lunch. After all those climbing before lunch, I was delighted that we were finally walking on level ground. How wrong I was! Soon, stairs started appearing before me and it was another long climb. I hate stairs!

Our target destination was to reach Potana before the end of the day. We did reach Potana but we were early. Our Sherpa Guide decided that we had time for more trekking and we continued on our way. This time, it was downhill. After all the earlier climbs, this shoud be better right? But I was to be proven wrong again! If going uphill was tiring, going downhill was scary! As we made our way down the steps, we had to constantly apply "brakes" to avoid slipping. These stairs were actually rocks that were stacked together. Because of errosion and rain, they were not stable in most parts and if one was not careful and happened to step on a loose rock, then it will all be over.

We finally managed to made our way safely down these trecherous stairs and break for the night in a teahouse near Landrung. It was owned by a former Gurkha who had served in Hong Kong and Singapore before his retirement. After a day of almost non-stop trekking, it was nice to have a warm shower and to be able to sit down to rest our tired feet.

Steps, steps and more steps... On the way to Landrung, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

An interesting fact that I learned today was that almost all the buffalos that we had seen along the way were wild animals! I had thought that they were domesticated. If the locals wanted any meat, they literally just "grabbed" one and slaughter it on the spot! The meat was then shared among the villagers.  

Day 2 (4 April 1998) - We woke at 6.00am and breakfast was at 7.30am. It was a simple meal of Tibetan bread and hard-boiled eggs. Nevertheless, it was enough to keep our stomachs full as we resumed on our trek. Without stopping for any breaks, we trekked for about 3 hours until we reached Landrung at about 12.00pm. Along the way, we managed to have some clear views of Mount Annapurna South. The view of the majestic mountain that towers 7219 metres (23684 ft) above sea level, more than made up for our laborious trek.

The rapids of a fast flowing river along the way to Ghandrung, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal  (1998)

From Landrung, it was downhill all the way as we crossed a river, the Modi Khola, and climbed Ghandrung. In 3 hours and 15 minutes, we had reached the peak of Ghandrung at 1960 metres (6430 ft). We had effectively crossed a valley on foot! The climb was quite a torture for me. The day before, I had "pulled" a thigh muscle on my right leg while trying to prevent a slip. Therefore throughout the climb, I had to mostly relied on my left leg to do the climb. But still, I made it.

The author at a tea house near Landrung, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

Surprisingly, Ghandrung seemed rather "advanced". They had electricity and even radio. There was a police checkpoint where our Guide went to have our permits checked and stamped.

A view of the hillside of Ghandrung, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

Day 3 (5 April 1998) - One of my friends had to end his trek due to food poisoning. In fact, he was already "hit" yesterday but finally gave up today. A porter was hired to accompany him to Ghandrung.  

We continued on our trek and had to start climbing again as soon as we left Ghandrung. I repeat again. I hate stairs! Because it had rained the night before, the ground condition was especially slippery. Finally I knew what was really meant by the phrase "slippery when wet". I slipped several times on the way to Tadapani but fortunately, did not get injured.

As we continued on our climb, the visual spectacle that was to be our reward, justified the hard work and endurance. For a period of time, we were walking in no-man's land, amidst lush forests of Rhododeron trees whose trunks were covered thick with moss. This coupled with the mist surrounding us, made the view even more exotic. We were walking amongst the clouds! The altitude was nearly 2700 metres (8858 ft) above sea level.

Journey to Tadapani, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

We finally reached Tadapani and had lunch before continuing to Berthanti. From Tadapani, it was downhill for almost 1000 metres (3280 ft) before we had to reverse "gears" and went uphill again. Along the way, we had to make our way past footpaths that encircled the hills. One slip and it will be game over.

The forest of Rhododeron trees that lies between Ghandrung and Tadapani, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

Day 4 (6 April 1998) - Today was the fourth day of our trek and a short one. Before noon, we had reached the peak of Deurali. A check on the altitute meter showed that we were nearly 3400 metres (11154 ft) aboe sea level. For the first time since we started on our trek, we encountered snow. Although it was a beautiful sight to see the terrain before us covered in patches of white snow, it unfortunately also meant a more slippery trek. The snow coupled with the moisture from such an altitude meant that the trek had become more difficult and many I add, dangerous as well.

But we managed to continue on our trek safely and soon we were at Ghorepani. Today's trek had been completed. For the rest of the day, we just lazed around in Ghorepani. During dinner time, I took a look around the teahouse and was amazed at the sight of people of different nationalities huddled around the fireplace, drinking hot tea and engaging in conversations, oblivious to the cold outside which must have been near to zero degrees celcius. People of different backgrounds, age and language but bonded by a common desire to be near to nature's wonders. Among the group were Nepalese, Americans, French, Japanese, Norweigians, Singaporeans and Taiwanese. I had a good conversation with an elderly French couple. They were delighted at the fact that I could speak a little French and in a combination of French and English, we had a really nice chat.

Scenic view from Ghorepani, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

Day 5 (7 April 1998) - We rose from our sleep at about 4.00am and climbed up Poon Hill (3194 meters, 10479 ft)) in the dark. The cold wind caught me by surprise as I was only clad in a pair of T-shirt and jeans plus a light jacket. By the time, I reached the top of Poon Hill, I was almost shivering but a cup of warm coffee was enough to help me overcame the cold air, at least for that one moment in time.

Poon Hill offered a panaromic view of the Annapurna range of the Himalayas. The clear morning air and rising sun made the view even more spectacular. From here, we could clearly see Mount Annapurna South (7219 metres, 23684 ft)), Mount Annapurna-I (8091 metres, 26545 ft), Mount Annapurna-II (7937 metres, 26040 ft), Mount Hiunchuli (6441 metres, 21132 ft), Mount Machhapuchchhre (6993 metres, 22943 ft)) and Mount Dhaulagiri (8167 metres, 26795 ft). There are definitely more peaks than those I have named, but because I couldn't identify them, I was not able to  list them in this article.

Mount Annapurna South bathed in the warm rays of the rising morning sun, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

The sun rising over the Annapurna Himalayas. Mount Machhapuchhare (a.k.a. Fishtail) is the highest peak on the left of the picture, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

Mount Dhaulagiri at 8167 metres (26795 ft), is the 7th highest peak in the world, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

After Poon Hill, we headed downhill from Ghorepani. We were on the last leg of our trek and it was all downhill from here. No more climbing. Hurray!

Mules were harnessed for the laborious tasks of carrying goods up the hills, Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (1998)

Our journey back took us past the villages of Banthanti, Tikedungha and Ulleri. By the time we reached Birethanti, it was almost 5.00pm and we decided that we will spend the night here. Enough was enough, we had descended some 2000 metres (6561 ft) in about 7 hours and my feet had developed blisters. I badly needed a rest!

Day 6 (8 April 1998) - The 6th day was a relaxed one. We were up by 8.00am and started for Pokhara at about 9.30am. Trekking past some small villages, we were soon on the main road that will take us to Pokhara. We finally returned to Pokhara and reached the Stupa Hotel at about 11am. I just took off my shoes and soaked myself in a nice warm bath. The trek was over. The next day, we will leave Pokhara for the Royal Chitwan National Park.

Chitwan National Park

To an avid nature lover like me, the visit to the Chitwan National Park (formerly known as the Royal Chitwan National Park) was to be the highlight of my trip. Little was I to know that I would be left disappointed. The reason was, both camera batteries that I had with me, went flat during my stay in Chitwan. I was thus left high and dry and was unable to even have the chance to photograph those beautiful safari pictures that I had always wanted. 

Nevertheless, the other aspects of my stay in this lush National Park more than made up for the disappointment.

During our stay, we put up at the Chitwan Jungle Lodge. Settling down into our rooms, we discovered that there were lots of red-whiskered bulbuls and oriental white-eyes feeding in the trees just outside the windows. Setting up my tripod and camera, I snapped 3 shots of an oriental white-eye. Just then, a bulbul edged close to a branch near me. Manually focusing my lens on the bird, I tried to take a shot. But the shutter just won't open. I checked the camera and discovered that the battery had went flat. Loading the spare battery into the camera, I discovered to my horror that it was "dead" as well. The rest was history and as far as photograhpy was concerned, it was game over for me.

An Oriental White-eye feeding on flowers of the Oleander plant, Chitwan National Park, Nepal (1998)

In the evening, my friends and I were treated to a ride into the jungle on elephant back. Each elephant was able to carry up to 4 passengers excluding its driver. As there were only 3 of us, we were joined by a friendly fellow tourist. We found out later that she is from Germany and like us, is also a nature lover.  

The most interesting part of the ride was when we spotted a mother rhinocerous and her cub. These are the Indian one-horned rhinocerous. Having full faith in the elephant driver and the mighty beast on whose back we were seated, there wasn't any sense of fear among the 4 of us. In fact, we enjoyed every moment that we spent while following the 2 rhinos. It was one of those beautiful scenes that we had often seen in documentaries on television. Apart from the rhinos, other wildlife that we saw that evening included peacocks, a monitor lizard, hog deers, spotted deers, barking deers and samba deers. 

Dinner that night was buffet style but before that, there was a performance featuring the Tharu stick dance. The coordinated clashing of sticks by a circle of men amidst the dark Chitwan night was a spectacular sight. The Tharus are the native people of the Terais. Towards the end of the dance, everybody joined in and had a wonderful time.

Another elephant ride awaited us the next morning. This time, apart from the usual herds of hog deers and spotted deers, we also came across a troop of langur monkeys. The afternoon's programme was a safari jeep drive deep into the forest. For the first time, we spotted a sloth bear. Later we even heard what appeared to be a fight between 2 of these bears. Although we did not witness the alleged fight first hand, the sound of roars and blows was enough to convince us that it was definitely not a friendly encounter between 2 powerful creatures.

Beautiful birds-of-paradise and blue-throatedbee-eaters in the air were common sightings. On the ground, the occasional samba deer at close range never failed to generate much excitement among us and other tourists who were in the same jeep.

But all good things had to come to an end and before I realised it, my 2-day stay in Chitwan had concluded. The only blight in what was an enjoyable stay, was my inability to take any pictures of the wildlife we encountered. I had learned my lesson and the next time I travel, I will make sure that I had an ample supply of batteries with me. Who knows, the next time I visit Chitwan, I may get a chance to photograph the Royal Bengal Tiger!