Singapore, Pulau Ubin - Time Travel to 1960s Era Singapore

Ever wonder what life in Singapore was like in the 1960s? Time travel is possible when you visit Pulau Ubin!

History and Geography

Located in the North-East of Singapore, Pulau Ubin is a one of the larger islands in Singapore. Also known as Ubin Island, this small 10.2 square kilometres island is among the last, if not the last, remaining areas in Singapore today that is truly rural. This is a place that time seems to have forgotten. While the rest of Singapore underwent rapid industrialisation and development in the past several decades since achieving the status of an independent nation, Pulau Ubin remains very much like what life was in Singapore in the 1960s.

Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

The word "Pulau" means island in the Malay language and "Ubin" means granite. Thus, literally translated, Pulau Ubin means Granite Island. The abandoned and disused granite quarries on the island are testaments to the island's past when it was a place where granite were harvested.

How Pulau Ubin came into being is rooted in a legend. The story goes that three animals; an elephant, a pig and a frog, challenged each other to cross the sea. Whoever failed to reach the shore shall turn into a stone. All three animals failed in their quests. The elephant and the pig turned into Pulau Ubin and the frog turned into Pulau Sekudu (a.k.a. Frog Island); a small islet off Pulau Ubin, towards the south. Pulau Sekudu can be viewed from the south-eastern parts of Pulau Ubin, especially at Chek Jawa. At low tide, the shape of the main stones forming Pulau Sekudu are said to resemble a frog.

Climate

Like most of Singapore, Pulau Ubin is hot and humid all year round. Daytime temperatures can hit as high as 34 deg C. The rainy season is usually between the months of November to February.

Getting There

To reach Pulau Ubin, take the public transport or drive to Changi Village. If you are a tourist and plan to take a taxi to Changi, just tell the driver to drive you to the Bumboat Jetty at Changi Village. Alternatively, you may also tell the driver that your destination is the Changi Point Ferry Terminal or Changi Jetty for Pulau Ubin.

Alternatively, take the MRT (a.k.a metro) to the Tanah Merah MRT Station. Exit from the station and take Bus Service Number 2 (at the bus stop opposite the MRT Station). The bus will stop at the Changi Village Food Center which is just next to the Changi Point Ferry Terminal. In the event you get disoriented after alighting from the bus at the Changi Village Food Center, just nicely ask any of the friendly locals there how to get to the Ferry Terminal and most will be extremely happy to point you in the right directions. 

Changi Point Ferry Terminal, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

There, you will find a pier where bumboats will ferry passengers to and from Pulau Ubin. The cost is SGD$3 per person for each way, payable by cash only. The bumboat operator will usually wait for the maximum of 12 people before beginning the short sea journey. If you do not wish to wait, you can always offer to pay SGD$36 and you are good to go! 

For tourists, presentation and verification of passports are not required because you are still travelling within Singapore.

Bumboat on the way from the Changi Point Ferry Terminal to Pulau Ubin, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Arriving at Pulau Ubin's Jetty, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Mangrove next to the Pulau Ubin Jetty, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

What To Expect

Less than 100 villagers stay in Pulau Ubin today. There are no high end restaurants or resorts on the island. What you will find  on the island are some bicycle rental shops and a few small shops selling food and drinks. These are all concentrated around the Jetty where you alight from the Bumboat after the short journey from Changi.

Small shops on the island, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

There is a small Police Post on the island. But like much of Singapore today, Pulau Ubin is a very safe place. You are highly unlikely to get robbed or mugged.

Come to the island expecting to experience life in Singapore in the 1960s. Cycle, walk or hike along the trails. Enjoy the forested areas that used to cover much of mainland Singapore in the years before the 1960s. 

This tree is known as the Common Pulau (Alstonia anhustiloba), Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

View the old kampung (a.k.a. village) houses that still remain on the islands and stroll along the perimeters of disused prawn ponds. Wells, those still in use and those who are no longer in use, can be seen along the usual cycling, walking and hiking trails.

Disused Well, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Small-scale developments to improve the island to facilitate visitors are however contributing to Pulau Ubin being slowly transformed from an untouched haven of the 1960s. An example is the recent creation of an orchard with new fruit trees being planted. I am not sure of the reasons behind this development of a "new orchard' but I guessed it has to do with efforts to more effectively showcase and educate on the diversity of the natural flora of the island to visitors. Thus, visit Pulau Ubin now before it is further "developed" and start to lose its original characters.

Here in Pulau Ubin, you may also encounter wildlife who call this little island home. These include the Malayan Water Monitor Lizard (Varanus salvator), Wild Boar (Sus scruff) and Long-tailed Macaques (Macaca fasciaularis).

Malayan Water Monitor Lizard, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Long-tailed Macaque, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Bird life that can be found here include the Oriental Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris), Black-naped Oriole (Oriolus chinensis), Asian Glossy Starling (Aplonis panayensis) and White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leechgaster). Many different species of Bulbuls, Kingfishers, Herons and Egrets are also frequently sighted by visitors.

Oriental Pied Hornbill, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Tanjong Chek Jawa (a.k.a Chek Jawa) in located in the south-eastern parts of Pulau Ubin. This area is a unique wetland where several different and important eco-systems are naturally co-located together.  These ecosystems are interdependent and they include coastal forest, mangroves, sandy beach, rocky shore, sandbank and corals.

Map at the entrance of the Chek Jawa Wetland, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Coastal Forest, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Mangroves, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Young Mangrove plants, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Small crab emerging from its burrow at low tide, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Sandy Beach, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

At Chek Jawa, there is a coastal boardwalk where you can walk and view the seashore life at low tides without getting your feet wet and more importantly, without trampling on the fragile ecosystem. Here, you can also find a 7-storey high Viewing Tower (a.k.a. Jejawi Tower) from which you may view the forest canopy and get up close and personal with the birds who live or feed there. There is also a Visitor Center located in a Tudor-styled House which was originally built in the 1930s. 

Viewing Jetty, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Trail for visitors, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Jejawi Tower, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Forest Canopy as viewed from Jejawi Tower, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Forest Canopy as viewed from Jejawi Tower, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Visitor Center, Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Visitor Center as seen from the Viewing Jetty , Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin, Singapore (2016)

Despite its relatively small size, Pulau Ubin still has a lot to offer visitors.

Advices and Tips

As mentioned many times in this article, Pulau Ubin is what Singapore was like in the 1960s. Thus, there are no ATMs on the island. Credit cards are also not accepted when renting bicycles or buying food and drinks on the island. Bring along some cash; small change in denominations of SGD$1, SGD$2, SGD$5 and SGD$10 are preferred.

The island is hot and humid. Bring along a cap or sunhat. Suntan lotion, insect repellants and a small towel will come in handy as well. A light raincoat or small umbrella may also be required if rain is forecasted during your excursion to Pulau Ubin.

Camping overnight is not allowed if I remember correctly. Check with the relevant Authorities if you plan on an overnight stay and make sure you have the necessary permissions and paperwork. The last bumboat usually leaves the island around 7pm (remember to confirm this timing during your visit as bumboat timings may change without notice). Thus, try to complete your day trip by 6pm, allowing for some buffer time to ensure you are able to catch the last bumboat back to Changi.

And remember to enjoy Pulau Ubin as it is. Do not litter and bring all your trash with you when you leave the island. Help us preserve the island and keep it as clean as possible. :-)